Around Jamaica

In Montego Bay I figured out that making my way to Cuba then over to Mexico would be more costly and difficult than I had hoped. So I decided not go to Cuba, from Jamaica, and instead decided to see more of the country before taking my scheduled return trip back to Miami. At this point I was traveling on my own, but I was able to meet two of Jenny's good Peace Corps friend's in Montego Bay. I stayed a couple of nights with Will and had lunch with Anova – it was great to meet both of them.












Montego Bay












Tractor pulling a trailer of sugar cane on the way to Negril












School kids in their uniforms walking home from school between Montego Bay and Negril

The north and west parts of Jamaica weren't my favorite parts of the country. The beaches and landscapes were undeniably beautiful, but the high level of tourism that came with them didn't bring out the best of Jamaica. I was constantly and annoyingly hustled to buy marijuana, cocaine, sex, jet skis, taxis, souvenirs, glass boat rides, you name it. And for the things that I did want to buy it was hard to find a fair price. I met some great people while I was there, but so many others were disingenuous, only looking to sell you something or outright beg. In general, I thought Montego Bay and Negril were overrated for the hassle, expense, and watered down Jamaican experience that they offered.












Friendly and colorful, yet desperate, taxi driver who followed me for a couple of blocks, trying to convince me not to walk.












Jet skis, tourists, and a beautiful 7 mile beach... Welcome to Negril!












Lighthouse and cliffs on the west end of Negril












Resort on the cliffs of Negril, facing the cliff divers












Boy prepared to dive from the cliffs












Diving!

Once I was away from the tourist traps in Negril and Montego Bay Jamaica was much more enjoyable. Jamaica's main source of income is tourism, so you can't really avoid it, but some places were considerably more relaxed. From the west of Jamaica I made my way around to the south side of the island to see the Pelican Bar and Treasure Beach.

The Pelican Bar is a one of a kind watering hole that sits out in the middle of the ocean, almost a mile off shore. To get to the bar I caught a ride from the town of Black River with a guy who happened to go to school with the owner of the bar, Floyd. On the way there my driver, Winston, called Floyd to have him send over the boat from the bar to pick me up. This place was in the middle of nowhere, but sure enough as we pulled into a desolate lot on the ocean there was a boat coming right for us. It was a dark, gray day in a very sleepy part of the world, and I really wasn't sure what to think. I had an eerie feeling about whole situation, but I figured everything was fine. I tipped Winston for the ride, and got into the boat.












Boating to the Pelican Bar, looking bar at the shore












Looking out on the ocean from the front of the boat with the Pelican Bar in the Distance

As we approached the bar I began to realize just how simple it was. There wasn't much to it other than dead tree branches, scrap pieces of wood, and palm fronds cobbled together. The place was a law suit waiting to happen with twisted tree branch steps, a terribly uneven floor of scrap wood, and planking that extended out over the water – I loved it. There was no bathroom, no electricity; just an old deep freeze full of beer and ice. To a further add to the simplicity of the place, I was their only customer. At one point the captain and Floyd had actually fallen asleep and I ended up helping myself to another cold Red Stripe. My only entertainment on the quietly eerie, overcast day was to listen to the surf and watch the crabs crawl across the floor.












The Pelican Bar












Tattered flags at the Pelican bar












The Bar from the wooden planking












The boat from the planking












Floyd and the Captain fast asleep












Crabs crawling around

From the Pelican bar I was off to Treasure Beach for a couple of days before heading back to Jenny's place near Kingston. Treasure Beach was a relaxing place with much less hustle than Negril or Montego Bay.












Treasure Beach












The front of Jake's restaurant and guest cottages at Treasure Beach












Looking out at the ocean from the back of Jake's place

I wanted to leave on Sunday to visit with Jenny a couple more days, but rides out of town back to Kingston were tough to come by. Most things are shut down on Sunday, but you can always count on church to be open. From across the town I could hear the booming sound system of a Pentecostal church, so I thought I would check it out. It was a pretty wild service.










Picture taken from the outside the open window of a Pentecostal church

My travels from Treasure Beach back to Kingston were entertaining to say the least. To start my trip I ended up hitch-hiking out of Treasure Beach to the crossroad heading toward Kingston. It felt great just to hop in the back of a truck on a beautiful day and head down the road.












Hitchhiking to the crossroad from Treasure Beach

At the crossroads I caught a taxi to a town called Junction, and then took another taxi on to an even larger town called Mandeville. From there I caught a minibus that would take me to downtown Kingston. Taxis and minibuses tend to be a cramped experience in Jamaica. It's standard practice to stuff four people, despite their size, into a row of three seats. In the back seat of the route taxis, 4 people ride; In the four seated rows of the mini-buses, 5 people ride.

When I stepped on to the minibus I was directed to wedge myself between two women at the back of the bus. We all had a good time with trying to make it work and decided it would be best if the thin woman to my right actually sat on my lap for the two hour ride back to the capitol. Though a bit odd, this was a much better solution than everyone wedged in together. To add to the entertainment of the situation the larger woman to my left yelled something out to the driver as we were getting into Kingston, and he pulled off to the side of the road. She bolted from the bus and about 30 feet off to the side, in the middle of the city with people walking around, within plain view of everyone on the bus, she popped a squat and urinated. The whole bus was cracking up, which almost made it seem normal.












Wedged between two women who were having a good time, though a little embarrassed to have their picture taken.












Looking forward in the mini-bus, before it was completely full. There are five in the row ahead of me, but only 4 in the next two rows.












Walking through Kingston to get to the next bus going to my sister's place.

My trip to Jamaica was eventful and interesting. I had and some great and not so great experiences, but overall I enjoyed my stay, met a lot of really great people and felt like I got a good feel for the country. As I was thinking about Jamaica I wrote down several of the scenes, experiences, and observations that came to represent my experience in Jamaica. Here are several.

Bright, bold colors. Crazy driving, except over potholes, which seemed to act as reverse speed bumps. People on the street, especially children in their colorful uniforms walking to or from school. The slap of dominoes in the evening with the banter of Patois to match. Fried chicken with rice and bean. Fields of sugar cane, beautiful beaches, lush mountains, and scars from bauxite mining. Cramped minibuses and taxis rushing through chaotic traffic. Loud Music, dreadlocks, and ganga. Hustlers. Sexism, homophobia, poverty, violence and disparity of wealth. Amazing dancing moves and all night parties. The ubiquity of cell phones, some time two or three per person. National pride. Kids playing cricket and rolling worn tires with sticks.












Paddle and palm fronds












Painting a crosswalk on Labor Day, normally a day of community or home improvement












Donkey












Full moon and palm tree