Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Michoacanejo, Smalltown Mexico

One of my best friend's from the Peace Corps, Antonio, told me that his dad, Toño Sr., is from a small town in the state of Jalisco, Mexico called Michoacanejo (pronounced Meachwacaneho), and that I could stay at the house even though his dad is in the states. This small town just happened to be about the halfway point between Zacatecas, where I was, and Guadalajara, my next destination. After spending some time in moderately touristy cities I was ready for the pace and unique charm of a small town; Michoacanejo was perfect.












The landscape coming into Michoacanejo

Antonio gave me very simple directions for getting there and finding people that would help me get to his dad's house in town; catch a bus from the nearest city then look for Julio, Antonio's cousin, at the tortilla factory. Within 10 minutes of getting to the town I found the sweet smelling tortilla factory, but Julio was back at his house playing the tuba on his afternoon break. I introduced myself to the owner of the Tortilla factory, David, and he insisted on driving me over to Julio's house. Both Julio and David had no idea that I was coming but they both took great care of me and treated me as if I was family. After Julio showed me all the musical instruments at his house we all went back to the tortilla factory to hang out and they showed me how they went about making the tortillas. We screwed around for a little bit and then went next door to the pizza shop, which David also owns, and we had a great meal together.












Pickup full of passengers in the back driving into town.












Coming further into town












Downtown Michoacanejo!












Central park












Looking for a tortilla factory and Antonio' dad's house, finding a political ad for another Toño.












David and Julio at the tortilla factory












Piling up fresh tortillas beside the tortilla press













Helping Julio collect tortillas as he pushes dough through the press

Later in the afternoon Julio showed me to Antonio's dad's house. Don Toño's sister was staying there at the time so she was able to let me in and get me set up in the extra bedroom. After I rested up I went out to see Julio and his band practice and came across a couple other interesting sights. I stopped by David's place afterwards, and he showed me the house which is above the tortilla factory and pizza shop. Later on we all ate together again.












Don Toño's house












Julio at band practice












Close up of the band and Julio playing the tuba












Man working late in the afternoon screening sand to make mortar












Outdoor Catholic mass being held down the street from David's house












Church service as seen from the top of David's house












Procession carrying the honored saint down the street from the Catholic mass












David and Julio's family after dinner at the pizza shop

The next day I was off to explore the town and saw quite a bit for one day. I walked all over the town which is pretty small and set on a bluff that a river loops around. In the morning I spent most of my time in town and in the afternoon I walked along the river valley and crossed over to the countryside. There were great things to see all over.












Looking from the top of David's house to the center of the town and over to the river valley












Typical street in Michoacanejo












Walking through the central park












The edge of the park and the streets that make up the town square










Corner shop on the town square












Catholic church












Bottles used in a wall to let light into one of the buildings around the church












Julio's house












Humble house in the neighborhood












Woman pulling weeds












One of the many large Political ads painted as murals on walls












Clothes drying near a chicken coop












Old truck












Corn field planted in a vacant residential lot












Cows grazing in another open lot












View of a typical roof framed by an unfinished brick wall and banana tree












Rusted door and roofless house with an ad that says “vote this way...”

Walking along the river valley and crossing over to the country side was a vivid experience. The landscape was beautifully lush after the recent rains, and there were plenty of interesting glimpses of life in the country; brand new tractors along side of horses plowing fields, cows and sheep in people's yards, kids running around barefoot. I even ran into people that are good friends of Antonio and his family. It was really a great adventure.












Street of Michoacanejo dipping down to the river valley












The agriculturally rich river valley as seen from the town above












Donkey and pile of bricks near the river












Two guys enjoying the shade of a large tree












Fence row and corn field












Brand new John Deere tractor












Truck bed used as a makeshift trailer












Pickup stuck in the river crossing












The river












Farmer crossing over the river on a foot bridge












Man on a bike crossing the same bridge












Shady river valley












Looking up from the valley to the town












Pile of bricks in the country side












Homemade tire swing












Kids playing, the smallest of them all with knifes












Dry laid rock wall












Corn field












Selia and her grandkids playing in the river. She asked about me and it turns out that she and her husband Chalio are neighbors of Don Toño and know Anotonio, or Junior as they call him, very well. Small town, small world.












Chalio standing in front of his horses which are plowing over the weeds between the corn rows












Close up of horses, whose mouths are covered to prevent them from eating the corn












Plowing the weeds over

Later in the afternoon I took a ride with David and Julio to pick up a car that was in the shop. On our way back Julio brought me to see a couple more sights around the town.












A field of blue agave which will one day be used in the production of Tequila












The municipal sports complex

To cap off the already long day David, Julio and David' kids invited me to go to the reservoir and dam not that far out side of town. David's two oldest boys, Sergio and Juan, rode out with me on bikes while Julio and David drove the truck out. It was a fun ride trying to make it to the dam before the sunset. After we made it there and hiked down to the dam we spent some time in the small town near the dam. David and Julio knew about everyone there and everyone there knew of Arizona. Almost all of them had a family member who was contracted to work on one of the farms in Chandler, Arizona.












Riding out to the dam with Juan and Sergio












Passing the town cemetery along the way












Sergio moving two cows up the road












Sergio and the bull looking back












Juan and Sergio at the reservoir












Looking down at the dam












The reservoir just after sunset












Hanging out in the small town by the lake at night











David, Julio, Juan, and Sergio goofing around with a donkey roaming around in the little town












Worn mural