In the Southern part of Mexico City is a unique area called Xochimilco (Sochimilco). Xochimilco has the last remnants of the canals and floating gardens that once surrounded all of Mexico City, and it also has kept much of it's own unique culture though it has been absorbed by the ever-expanding metropolis of Mexico City.
In Xochimilco I stayed with a woman, Rebeca, and her family from Servas, an organization dedicated to inter-cultural exchanges through home stays with host families. To find Rebeca home I asked for directions from a guy who was riding the train with me and getting off at a stop close to mine. Carlos, my new friend, went out of his way to call several people including Rebeca to figure out where I should go, then once Rebeca and I made a plan to meet at a nearby coffee shop, Carlos insisted on getting me to the right place and accompanied me by taxi to the coffee shop. This anecdote typifies my experience with the people here – warm, friendly, and generous without any sort of hidden agenda. Of course there are all types of people everywhere you go, but generally the people here have been amazing.
Carlos and I have coffee before meeting Rebeca
It was great to meet Rebeca and her mom later in the evening, after Rebeca finished her last day of work. We got to know each other a bit, then they set me up at their house and we rested up for our unknown adventures the next day.
The next morning started off at an easy pace with a late breakfast at the house then a trip to the the Dolores Olmeda Museum where works by Diego Rivera, Frieda Kahulo, and others are showcased in the beautiful estate of the storied Mexican actress Dolres Olmeda. But, as we were parking to walk to the museum fate intervened and we found a convention of clowns! We made our way in to see what was happening and it was quite a sight.
Convention of clowns gathered for a group photo
Clowns!
Juggling clown on ball in front of Rebeca
Clown teasing Rebeca
My new girlfriend!
Rebeca and I with a cowboy clown
The clown festivities subsided for a bit so we went to the Dolores Olmedo Museum and decided to come back for some event they were having in the afternoon. The museum and surround compound was gorgeous and peaceful. The artwork it housed was also beautiful, but I enjoyed the setting just as much if not more. One of the great surprises of the museum other than the landscape were all of the peacocks. There were at least 50 peacocks
that were roaming and strutting about the place – so beautiful, and at times even loud.
Peacock fanning its feathers at Dolores Olmedo Muesum
Sculptures outside the museum
Close up of peacock
Peacock perched above path
Peacock and huge agaves
After our time at the museum we eat lunch about 3:00, as is typical in Mexico, and it was a beautiful meal just down the street from the clown convention at a local diner. We made it back to the convention and found out that the clowns were about to start a parade – down one side of the main boulevard walking, joking, screwing around, and blocking off traffic for more than a mile down to the town square of Xochimilco – it was a riot. People didn't know what to think, but they loved it.
Clown parade!
Rebeca wearing a clown hat and dancing down the street
Bright clown
Clowns on shoulders
Clown being dragged (by his own choice)
Superman & Flash Gordon... clowns
Clowns jumping over each other
Mariachi clowns
Clown and bug
Red haired clown
Superman clown flying
Kid clown on bug
Kid clown in bug
Pink haired clown
Clowns harassing stores
People not knowing what to think
Marching clowns and bug
Clown party in the central park of Xochimilco
After the Parade the clowns converged for some type of ceremony and party. I had a great time but I was clowned out after the parade so I went off to see some of the town while Rebeca watched more of the festivities. The town was interesting and full of life for a Thursday. The Park and nearby church were beautiful, and the market stalls were interesting.
Central park in Xochimilco
Church next to the park
Bug taxis in the street
Pirated CDs for sale for one dollar (10 pesos = 1 US dollar)
Interesting selection of foods
After the clown ceremony we went to take a boat ride through the canals of Xochimilco. Before the Spanish arrive Mexico city was a island surrounded by a shallow lake. As the city grew people began building up the outside edges of the island by dredging canals and depositing the fill to create “floating gardens”. The only part of the city that was not able to be drained was Xochimilco, and is the only place to get a feel for how the city once looked.
Rebeca and I took more than a an hour ride through the canals on one of the very typical colorful boats. Our captain used a long stick to guide our boat through the canals which varied from 3 to 10 feet. The canals were lined with cut tree branches and trees to prevent the erosion of the “floating gardens” into the canals. It was a beautiful and unique landscape, and had to be an interesting place to live. To add to the pastoral quality of the landscape most people in the area grew ornamental nursery plants or vegetables to make a living.
Xochimilico canal boat
Boats lined up at the dock
Colorful boat in the canals of Xochimilco
Floating taco stand selling its goods to a passing boat
Boat loaded with flowers for sale
Typical view of the canals
At this point we had already seen a lot for one day, but as we were heading back to the car by bus we saw yet another parade coming down the other side of the boulevard – the same route that we had just walked. So we got off the bus and went to see what was happening. In Xochimilco they have kept many of their traditions that mix indigenous and catholic rituals. Here the most cherished religious ritual is carrying an infant figure, called the Niñopa from one house to another – everyday. Apparently the reservation list for housing the religious figurine is lengthy, taking up to 14 years to host the Niñopa for one night. More than an honor it is also an expensive proposition, costing around 6,000 dollars to pay for all of the dancers, entertainment and food for all of the parade goers. In any case the parade was an interesting line up of characters. The Niñopa was preceded by a group of dancers wearing hats and robes with jingling chains hanging in front of their face, then there were the folks in feathered headdresses, and finally their were women twilling away in front of the Niñopa. It was quite a scene to an already wild day.
The Niñopa to the left, being accompanied by the Virgin Mary
Veiled dancers wearing hats and robes, jingling away
Dancer in masked headdress
Feathered headdress
Feathers in motion
Women dancing in colorful dresses
Twirling dancer
To cap of the fun day Rebeca and I had “Pulque” which is a mildly alcoholic traditional drink that dates back to the Aztecs and is made from the maguey agave. It was a great day.
Rebeca and I drinking Pulque infused with different juices
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