San Juan Chamula

Outside of San Cristobal I took a day trip to the nearby indigenous village of San Juan Chamula. I was told of a unique indigenous culture and church there so I thought i would check it out. The town looked interesting enough, but I had my doubts about the church. I have seen so many amazing churches in Mexico that from its outward appearance it did seem that unique by comparison. After I walked I saw the most fascinating sight of my whole trip in Mexico.
















I wish I had some photos of the inside of the church but photography was strictly forbidden. I met a woman who was giving a tour to some folks from France and she made sure to warn me as I was taking photographs of the outside of the church. She said that there have been people beaten to death for taking photographs inside the church. She herself had actually seen two people and their cameras beaten to a bloody pulp for either taking photographs or for being thought to have taken photographs. I'm an adventurous and I have a slightly rebellious streak to me but I didn't need that kind of trouble. I took no photos of the inside of the church, but the scene is worth putting into words.
















Entering the church there was a strong smell of incense and the view of thousands of candles all around. The church was dark with very little natural light. Simple white candles pegged to the floor and tables with there own wax lit the entire church. The candles were left to burn to the bottom of the wicks leaving puddles of wax that would later be scraped up. Folks were kneeling and chanting beside their own set of candles in the floor of the church which had no pews. Along the sides of the church were glass cabinets housing catholic saints which were worshiped as gods. The pathways of the church that lead up to the alter were a bed of long pine needles. The only vestige of Catholic ceremony to remain was the baptism basin at the back of the church – their were no Sunday masses.

Originally the church was built to introduce Catholicism to the region, but resulted in a strange mixture of Catholic and indigenous Mayan believes. Eventually the Mayan religion won out, but not without being influenced by the Catholic traditions. Instead of worshiping one god they now worship each of the Catholic saints as individual gods and apparently baptism is somehow incorporated. It was an interesting insight into the melding of cultures. Considering the history of the Spanish conquest and the age of the two religions the odd combinations makes enough sense. It's distant enough to grasp. What was also interesting, and harder to understand, were the modern influences associated with the unique ceremonies taking place in the church. Beyond the all of the candles and chanting there were three other elements to the ceremony which was meant to get rid of evil spirits – a very strong alcohol, Cokacola, and often the sacrifice of a live chicken. The alcohol and even the element of live sacrifice seem unique but understandable. How in the world Cokacola became part of the ritual to cleanse spirits from the body is a mystery. Walking around the church each ceremony had these things in common. Candles, kneeling and chanting, drinking a hard alcohol and Cokacola, and breaking the neck of a live chicken as a sacrifice to the particular god to whom they were praying.

It was a fascinating and other worldly experience. Yet another surprise that Mexico had to offer.












Flowers and corn stalks on church